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Silverbank

Snorkeling with Humpbacks

Traveled from San Francisco to Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic, with Katie, Doug and Lori Richardson, and Thom Macpherson, Stacy Spell. We met Lisa, Stacey’s cousin for the final leg to the DR.

Shipmates

We stayed overnight in Casa Colonial which was a beautiful boutique hotel on the beach. Katie tried out her broken leg in the ocean swimming about without too much pain. A late checkout and then off to the boat, the Turks and Caicos Explorer II. On the way our driver diverted us to what I am sure was a relatives shop as Doug and I wanted to pick up cigars for the trip. To board the boat, you needed a negative Covid test at the docks. We self administered the test and lo and behold all were negative. We may not have followed the guidelines precisely, like putting the swab in your nose and waiting 15 minutes for the results but, don’t want to be turned away at the door. We boarded the boat with Katie limping along with her crutch. We had already been pulled aside by the tour operator as Katie was making the crew nervous with her leg. They weren’t at all sure she could manage on the boat. The tour operator, Tom Conlin, was particularly concerned that she might hurt herself more and the boat would have to return to port early. She ended up signing a letter absolving all of any liability. Fortunately the ship’s captain, JF, was very nice and easy going. We couldn’t leave port as planned as the seas were rough so we spent the first night on the boat trying to sleep with a nearby outdoor nightclub in full swing. The accommodations were nice with a twin size bed, short closet, 4 drawer dresser, and a small bathroom with shower. We left about 6 in the am for an uneventful 8 hour trip to Silverbank.

Turks & Caicos Explorer II
Tenders

In the middle of nowhere coral heads appeared with whale spouts seen about. Two tenders were made ready and we were off on our first boat ride. We practiced getting into the water, forming a line, and getting back in the boat. We apparently weren’t that good but passed. We saw a mother and their calf and slowly approached, but they moved away. Tom didn’t want to continue ‘working them’. He tries to ease in to get the mother comfortable with the boat before people get in the water. Not long after, we traveled in amongst a group of 6 Rowdy Boys. The males jockeyed for dominance some lunging on the backs of other whales trying to see who would be top ‘dog/whale’ earning rights to get close to a female. One of the males had their dorsal fin bloodied by the encounter. Apparently one strategy is for the whale to open their mouth as they reach the surface, collect water, then lunge at the other whale, giving them more weight to strike with. Back to the big boat for a Happy Hour of gin and tonics, wine and beer. A beautiful sunset off the boat with a Green Flash as the sun set. First time to see that for me.

Happy Hour

Miguel was our Ecuadorian cook who made excellent meals throughout our trip, making steaks, ribs, roast beef, lasagne, Mahi-Mahi along with many wonderful soups and side dishes. We had talks at night about the whales then generally to bed pretty early, at least for Katie and I. Morning routine was up at 7 for prepared breakfast and coffee and in the boats by 8:30. Our group of 7 plus Marcella a regular visitor to the Silverbank, along with 2 sisters Julie and Sue alternated tenders each day with either Tom or Lorenzo as the driver. 2 crew accompanied us one of which was the scout that was first in the water trying to locate the whales underwater and to position us for viewing and safety. Lorenzo was from the DR and on our first trip with him as driver he was shouting a-lot, both at the guide in the water who was Tom Colin’s son TJ and at some of us! Not a great start. To be fair our second trip with him a couple days later entailed less shouting and much more fun. On our first full day we found some ‘sleepers’ which are typically a male and female resting on the bottom at 20′-30’, ‘sleeping’. They come to the surface for a breath every so often. We hovered over the 2 whales until one, usually the male would slowly rise to the surface. We would gather in a tighter group and the whale would slowly circle us. Deeming us ok, the whale descended to the other whale and they would then both come to the surface for a few breaths. Sometimes they would move farther away before descending again so we would get back in the boat. Sometimes they would descend 20-30 yards away so we would just swim over to them to watch another cycle.

Sleepers

On this week long trip there seemed to be paucity of whales compared to the 3 other trips Doug has been on at the Silverbank. We sometimes would share whales with the other tender, taking turns getting into the water.
For most of our days, we would spend a majority of our morning and afternoon trips on the tender scouting for whales. We would always end up with some wonderful experience, whether that was a mother and calf traveling with an escort male, a mother and calf with an escort and then a challenger. We had long visits with tail slapping calves and adults, breeches, and pectoral slaps. On our last day, a small craft advisory was posted. Getting on the bobbing tender was a challenge as it lifted sometimes 2-3 feet along side the Explorer. Katie always seemed to manage well despite her broken leg. Many of us with 2 good legs made it look difficult. As we left on our morning exploration that day, Tom our boat driver and owner of the company kept saying “this is borderline”. Not a confidence builder.

Boarding the tender with a small craft advisory posted

We drove about in a large circle several miles in radius around the 3 big boats. Before lunch we ran into a group of ‘Rowdy Boys’ and followed them for a while. After lunch the seas were a bit calmer but again several hours looking for whales. This was our last day and we all wanted an in the water encounter with a mother and calf which had been elusive. Just about 4 o’clock we spotted a mother and calf followed closely by an escort. We followed for quite a while and the mother and calf seemed to stay close to our boat. The escort did not want us there, performing big tail slaps near us and rolling to slap his pectoral fins at us. He would bellow as he broke the surface and the mother would sometimes bellow back.

Angry Escort

The escort kept the mother and calf moving so we didn’t get into the water with them. Eventually, Tom called Lorenzo and his tender over to switch places. We motored a ways away and Tom radioed Lorenzo to consider a ‘flyby’. For this, the tender is moved in front of traveling whales, you roll over the side and wait for the passing whales. A short while later, Lorenzo radioed the flyby was a success so we turned around, got our gear on, readied the cameras and dropped into the water in front of the approaching mother and calf. Mom approached then kinda stopped so we were up close with mom and her calf who circled about the mother. The escort appeared underneath us from the haze. He got between us snorkelers and the mother, then started winding up his tail. Gillilan, the scout, and I were about 10 feet from the tail of the escort but he was backing up. The Gillian and I started backing up as well and there were shouts from the tender to get back. The escort came backwards horizontally swiping his tale at us to within 5 feet. I started backpedaling faster! Luckily he did not chase as I’m not that fast and all were able to get back in the tender safely.

Underwater with an angry escort

We enjoyed a boisterous celebration of having survived and the escort spy-hopped us just off the side of the boat, maybe giving us a ‘what do you think about that!’ We headed back to the Explorer for a happy hour toast and another wonderful meal.
Currently we are headed back to the DR, sitting in the sun, reading books, typing blogs, enjoying life. I’ll post this and then eventually when I get photos and videos from other folks I will post those on this site as well.

Salud

The Final Chapter

Pont du Gard

We set off in the am heading South and West. We made it to Pont du Gard in the morning and walked about the Roman Aqueduct for an hour or so. Hard to imagine designing and building such a thing and to have it last some 2000 years. Just wow. We drove on to Carcassonne which I recall visiting in my college years. Seems a little more touristy then I remember but still a beautifully stunning walled village up on a hill. We toured the village then found a place to have cassoulet a famous dish from the area. The following day we drove some 3 or 4 hours to St Emilion considered the capital of the ‘Right Bank’ Bordeaux wine scene. A beautiful city in its own right with many wine vendors though few wine tasting sites. We tried to taste wine in a couple of vendor shops but they said we had to buy a case of wine before we could taste it. What?? We drove off searching for open vineyards. Stopped at several that were listed as open but no they were not. We had had a good wine with lunch in St Emilion so we sought out that winery. They were able to squeeze us in and we had a lovely tasting of their wine which led to us shipping a case home. I had not booked any lodging for this portion of the trip so we searched online for something. We found a lovely Chateau on the Dordogne River that had open rooms. They met us at the door with wine and then proceeded to upgrade our room. They recommended a restaurant one village over called Cafe Cuisine. We drove over using google maps but really could not find any obvious sign of a restaurant. We eventually looked into something labelled ‘hotel’ and there was the Cafe. Turned out to have excellent food. We drove up the Left Bank the following day, driving through Margaux, Pauillac, St Julien, etc. We had booked a couple of wine tastings so ended up at Chateau Baladine in the morning. We waited for the local wine worker to open up the place then ended up in a crow’s nest kind of place tasting a variety of their wines. Our host was difficult to understand but he sure laughed a lot. He pooh-poohed California wine as pretty much all of the french do, but he also complained about Chateaus just a kilometer down the road getting $6000 for a bottle of their wine. He told us St Petrus which is over on the right bank in Pomerol has a bottle that sells for $27000 a bottle. We didn’t get to try any of those wines. We drove south and remembered a winery our hosts from the previous night had recommended, Chateau Branas in Margaux. We stopped in on what turned out to be a very busy working winery. They had a free host who opened up the tasting room for us and we sat tasting some lovely wines. We shipped some back home as well. Off to our final Chateau which was the most formal of them all, Chateau Kirwan. Apparently I booked the following day not the day we were there but after a short wait they served up their fabulous wines. We always buy at least a bottle of wine at these tastings as they usually do not charge to taste.

Carcassonne
Saint-Emilion

We dropped our car off in Bordeaux the next day. Always a challenge driving in a big unknown city. There seemed to be all kinds of construction going on which made google maps and waves unreliable for navigation. We struggled to find the entrance for the rental car return even driving around the train station several times. Eventually found it and a gas station along the way. We purchased a 7 day metro pass for 10 Euro and hopped on a tram to downtown. Bordeaux turns out to be a fairly large, modern town with good public transportation and beautiful old alleys and pedestrian walkways (which means there are lots of bikes, some motorcycles and a few cars). We had a very good vegetarian lunch at ‘Simple’ then an uninspiring visit to the Musee de Vin, not to be confused with the Cite du Vin which is much better. We had dinner at Brasserie Bordelaise, Symbiose, and La Tupina. All were good and would recommend. We walked 7-8 miles a day along with rides on the Trams to help out. Some favs were Cite du Vin, a very modern museum with lots of information on the history and production of wine. There is also a glass of wine at the end presented on the top floor along with access to a wraparound deck for views of the city. We crossed the river on a metro ferry then walked over to Dylan’s. I would call it an artsy community but you could say skateboard park, alternative housing, roller derby school and brewpub. Kind of a mix. We walked about. Had some lunch and beer then walked back to downtown Bordeaux. We also liked Marche de Capuchins which is a food market with many food vendors. We had pinxos there. I should mention a Hall out next to Cite du Vin. Again food market and restaurants and many happy french singing songs and dancing. The french often don’t look at you as you pass on a walk or say Hi, but they sure can have fun at food vendors. I also can not help but mention smoking. Everybody seems to smoke. Probably a higher percentage than in Germany. People will get up in the middle of a meal to go outside to have a smoke. People walk around with vape machines. Not pens but large vats of nicotine oil in a canister the size of a pack of cigarettes. There has got to be a huge difference in lung cancer incidence between France and a West coast city. Why isn’t someone publishing that?

Bordeaux

We rode the bullet train to Paris and spent the night in a hotel next to the airport. Not very good sleep that night which is typical for moving day. We were at the airport 3 hours before our flight. Strangely, Katie and I had talked about our 23 generally flawless flights during our 10 week Holiday. We talked of our 23 different lodgings, our uneventful car rentals and train rides. Uneventful until now. We were stopped at checkin. A supervisor needs to talk to us but its not bad. That’s what they said. The supervisor wouldn’t really explain anything just kept saying we can’t fly directly to San Francisco. We have to fly to Chicago first because the CDC has testing sites there. What are they testing for? No answer. Why are they testing? You traveled to Africa right? Yes, some 6 weeks ago! At the gate, the flight personnel let it slip it was something to do with Uganda. Well that was 8 weeks ago. I checked the CDC website and could find no mention of any issues. Well we went to Chicago on a plane with hundreds of other people. None wearing a mask. We arrived at O’hare and the custom’s agent knew who we were! Sent us on to 2 guys in fatigues and plastic gloves! They asked about Uganda. Ah, yes we were there for 3 days 8 weeks ago. Oh we are looking for people who have traveled there within the last 3 weeks. They had an Ebola incident. So we traveled for 8 more weeks on multiple planes including the one to Chicago with nary a mention of this deadly disease. The one where blood comes out of your eyes and ears! Here is a free home Covid test for your troubles. Sorry for the inconvenience. Just a little trickle of smoke out of the ears. On to SFO and home. Sweet Home. And our own bed. 

Welcome to the South Of France

Avignon

A 2 hour train ride south and we arrived in Avignon. We stayed in the middle of the old town at Hotel Boquier which was ok. Great location and quiet at night. Nothing fancy. We explored the winding and narrow city streets that evening with dinner at Le Vintage. A little bit of rain but just drizzly. Explored the Palais de Papas the next morning as well as the Pont Avignon. Many roman ruins around the city which are just striking. Generally walked 7-8 miles a day. Dinner was at Le Coude e Coude which was very good. We traveled by train to Arles the following day where we visited the arena and theater. Learned a lot about gladiator fighting including a live performance at the old Roman Theater. The Saturday market was happening so for blocks there were stalls of food and crafts and thousands of people. Back in Avignon we had dinner at Restaurant Bar a Vin Le 46 where we had great food and discovered Domaine des Bosquets wine from Gigondas. We visited Nimes the following day but got a little cocky with thinking I knew how the train worked. We got off the train at Nimes/Pont Gard which turned out to be 10 or so km out of town. We Ubered into town for the same price as out return ticket from Avignon. Nimes has a fairly intact arena and a good audio tour. We explored up in a park with a wonderful pond including swans and ducks. Again more walking across town to the Maison de Carree (roman Temple where people came to exhalt their emperor). We walked back along the Rhone river to the train station and back to Avignon. We spent 1 more day in Avignon walking about the city, looking in the shops, having a glass of wine on a plaza. We found some old canals with ancient waterwheels still present and a nice cafe overlooking the canals for a tasty gin & tonic. We picked up our rental car, a Kia with an automatic transmission, at the train station. After 20 some round-abouts we were out of the city and out into southern France. Beautiful winding roads through vineyards and lavender fields passing through small old towns frequently on the way. We stopped in Chateauneuf du Pape for wine tasting. We visited a wine museum there and walked about the small city waiting for our appointment at Saint Charles. Turns out, a 40 something former sommelier bought an old stone building very close to the Pope’s summer residence and called it Les Caves St Charles. Down one of the darker corners he set up a private tasting room complete with candles and chanting monks. Katie and I sampled quite a few wines as he described the region, the evolving wine trends there and his own history traveling as a sommelier about Europe and to the West Coast every few years. We ended up buying a mixed case of generally non-traditional CNP wines to ship home. To ship they take off the 20% VAT from the purchase so we figured between that discount and the relatively cheap wines compared to at home, it was better just to ship. We’ve used that logic several times since then, particularly after tasting a number of wines at a Caveau or Domain. We drove on to Vaison la Romaine where our VRBO was located. Again, beautiful roads and scenery all the way. Our city, is on the banks of the Ouveze River. We are just on the slopes of the old medieval city built of course on a hill overlooking the river. We had a hard time finding our place as the address they gave us is actually the house across the street and when we rang there, they knew nothing about a rental. A few moments of angst, some slang english words and finally the owner messaged the actual location of the place. It is new but feels like it fits in well in this old part of town. Beautiful yard and very private. This is our 7th day staying Vaison la Romaine and it has been a fantastic base. We have explored wineries as far north as Cote Rotie (Guigal) and close to home in Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Rasteau, and Cairane. We have toured in the car around Mt Ventoux and down the Gorge of Nesque which is spectacular. We hiked in the Dontelles and in Luberon. We climbed down grottos at St Marcel in the Gorges de Ardeche. We were able to visit the Sunday market in L’Isle sur la Sorgue with booths set up all along the canals there. Beautiful villages along the way included Gordes, Roussillon, and Venasque. All with drop dead gorgeous views along the way. Sometimes, or rather frequently, our driving app, Waze, would send us right through the middle of town with extremely narrow streets and people walking all about. I was often not sure if I was on a pedestrian mall or I was going to wedge the car between two buildings. I have become a pseudo expert at the round-about which I think is an excellent idea for many intersections. I have had my share of tailgaters, sometimes within a couple of feet of my bumper as I am not the fastest driver out there. The Waze app is good in that it will signal a change in speed-limit, which is frequent and often not well posted. No tickets so far that I know of though they have many speed cameras and average speed zones where they mail you a ticket. Today is a bridge holiday, the 31st. Many things are closed and we found out it is because tomorrow is an official holiday, All Saints Day. Therefore the French bridge this with a day around it if possible which is today. Katie and I laugh abit about the French and their mid-day siesta, noon to 2. We had 1 young woman explain that they just work so hard they have to close and take a rest. Most things open at 10 so that for us makes us giggle. You go guys. Oh well, in general despite Katie’s and my French being terrible, most people have been very nice, even apologizing at times for not speaking English. We generally get a laugh when we say au revoir as a greeting or gracias to say thanks. Just trying to represent good ol America. Tomorrow we are heading towards Bordeaux for the last week of our ‘Holiday’

Arles Arena
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Gorges de Nesque
Dontelles
Grotto Saint Marcel
Vaison la Romaine

Berlin Mit Family

Brandenburg Gate

Well we have visited and left Berlin. We arrived there a week ago Tuesday. We found Zac and Maria’s apartment easily. It is located in a beautiful tree lined neighborhood and Fall is full on here. Leaves are everywhere. The air is nippy. The neighborhood is full of trendy shops and restaurants. Families are strolling the streets everywhere and the bike is a major form of transportation. As it was the middle of the week, Zac and Maria worked during the day while Katie and I toured Berlin via foot and Metro. The first night we had a nice dinner just outside his front door then rode the Metro down to the Bundestag for a tour. We were a little late so we didn’t have a guide but we could walk all over the beehive that it is. Over subsequent days we toured Gundewald Park with its Teufelsberg Tower (an old spy setup for the Americans looking in on the East Germans). The site is now a home for artists with ever changing graffiti and art installations. We walked along Bernauerstrasse where they have a Berlin Wall Memorial. This brought back memories for me as I visited the area and the Wall back in 1982 prior to medical school. On that visit I went into East Germany at Checkpoint Charlie which is now a very touristy area with no resemblance to what it was. The neighborhood Zac and Maria live in was East Germany and at that time very bland and depressed. Now it is a trendy sought after neighborhood to live in. We visited the Wall Memorial which had some footage of the period when the wall opened up. Brought a tear to my eye as I remembered the prison the people lived in and the expression of joy as they crossed the border wall into West Berlin. Very sad that now the right wing party of Germany particularly in East Germany, is gaining strength with the desire to go back to the way it was in East Germany. We had a glorious dinner at a German Tapas restaurant. Wonderful small plates. Maria led us on a night tour of the Festival of Lights, a weeklong celebration of light art. We strolled some local street fairs picking up a variety of cheeses, meats, and olives. These sufficed as dinner one night supplemented with wine and some funny Berlin peppermint liqueur while we played Eucher together. A very fun though late night requiring soft voices and motrin in the morning. We managed lunch or dinners of Doner Kabap, Pig Knuckles, and Cheesecake. missed the Curry Wurst but honestly its a hot dog with curry on it. Katie and I walked probably 6-8 miles a day throughout the city along with Metro and train rides when too tired. We took away a few impressions. Everybody bikes and they are aggressive. You must get out of their way. Katie at 5’10” and me at 6’ were short. Many, many men and women were taller if not much taller. I have never felt so short in my life. Why isn’t basketball just a huge thing here. Germans follow the rules. If the walk sign is red do not cross. I don’t care if there is no car or bike in sight. Don’t cross. Berlin is a very progressive city, very open to different lifestyles, dress, and cultures. However, shop owners are often surley not afraid to laugh at you, wave their arms or roll their eyes if you have some trouble ordering something. Finally, i was impressed with their public transportation. Trains,trams, and metros run frequently and get to most corners of the city. I can’t say they are efficient or timely though. When needed to be on time we found trains were running off schedule and connections couldn’t be made. Luftansa the national airline was never on time. Getting through German security took forever, even when we were in the priority line as we were flying business class. We wondered why the line was so slow but everyone removes almost everything from their bag to get it on the conveyor belt through the xray machine. Oh this partially empty toothpaste tube needs to be in a 1 liter bag. Let’s scan it again. Oh well, the plane did not blow up. After more than 10 or 15 airport transfers on this round the world trip, Germany was the most thorough but very slow. We are now in Paris. There is a strike going on, What! Very nice dinner, conversation, and walks with Erin, Michael, Emma, and Hannah. Tonight a special duck dinner cooked by Erin then on to Avignon in the am by train

Teufelsberg
Teufelsberg
Street Fair
The Wall
Brian, Michael, Erin, Emma, Hannah, Katie

Our Week in South Africa

Capetown from Table Top Mountain

Arrived in Capetown and took Uber for an $11 ride downtown to our hotel. The hotel was nice but a little unnerving in that both the Uber driver and the hotel clerk warned us not to walk about downtown when it is near dark. We walked a mile or so before dark down to the Waterfront area which is really nice. Many shops and restaurants, some outdoor music, and multiple interconnecting walkways over water to explore. We bought some cloths and then searched for something for dinner. We actually had a little bit of a hard time. Some restaurants were closing or closed at 7pm and some saying they had no room and there is no waitlist as they smiled at us! Curious. We eventually found a place to eat but discovered South African time in that service in restaurants is very slow. We Ubered home for a couple bucks. An Uber ride to the base of Table Mountain led us on a 2 hour hike up. Pretty strenuous, especially after being driven around for 3 weeks and being fed 5 meals a day. Glorious views over Capetown. We took the gondola down ending up at Green Market where we ate and picked up a medium sized piece of luggage for $15. Our plan is to ship or pack some South African wine as we go along. We explored the city a little bit the following day but I got to admit I was on edge the whole time. After leaving the hotel, walking down a major street, some guy lunges out at me and hits me on the shoulder. I scooted away quick as I only saw him in my periphery and I thought he had a black box in his outstretched hand like a Taser. To add some more spice, 5 minutes later we are looking to cross the street and a young man in fatigues, a flac jacket, and carrying an automatic pistol on his chest stops me. Asks me where I’m going. I said across the street. He says don’t do that, those guys over there will rob you. Like right on the other side of the street. I’m thinking, why don’t you go over there with your flac jacket and automatic pistol, but he just says, Hey, I’m not joking. We went another block then crossed. Visited a nice Nelson Mandela exhibit at City Hall but never made it to Robbens Island where he was imprisoned for 20 years. That night we had dinner with Katie’s brother Don and his husband Frank who so happened to be on a South Africa tour! Terrific meal at the waterfront and so good to be understood when we talk. English is English but then there is American. The following day brought some more walking, a visit to a brewpub because you have to, then dinner at Fyn’s a highly rated Japanese style restaurant. We chose the 8 course dinner with some of the courses having 3 or 4 items included in each of them. For just a modest seafood lover like myself, most everything was very, very good. Katie would say Fabulous!

Hiking up Table Mountain

Yes, there probably is an easier way

Made it!

The following day we rented a car at the airport and headed for wine country. Driving on the left was a work in progress. Luckily with Katie’s firm but meaningful leg squeezes and light traffic out in the countryside, nobody including the car got hurt. We stopped at Reyete vineyard which was quiet with good wines. We were the only people there. They said it was a typical days after Covid but would pick up on the weekend. We bought some wine and drove on to Stellenbosch. The apartment I rented through booking.com was on one street but I was texted a different address on the day of our arrival. Always worrisome but things turned out fine.  Nice apartment with parking. It just didn’t have a balcony which we were kinda looking forward to. We drove out to Kanonkop which made the Pinotage we really liked at Fyn’s. We had an appointment but there were plenty of openings. Got carried away purchasing wine as it is so cheap. I mean $10-20 bottles of good wine. We realized we were buying to much to pack so we checked in Stellenbosch about the cost of shipping 6 bottles to California. $500! We are going to drink some of what we have, share some with friends along the way, and carry the remainder home. Keermont is a very small winery almost the the end of a long single lane road. Baboons were on the road along the way and we arrived as the only guests so far that day. Lovely ‘natural’ wines in that they don’t use fertilizers and pesticides and the wine is minimally messed with during the fermentation and bottling. No additives. The winemaker came out and talked to us for quite a while then the local snake catcher who had just got a Puff Adder. No holding that snake as it is pretty venomous. He was going to release him in one of the rodent holes on the property to let him do his work. We heard there was a good lunch at Rust en Vrede vineyards but we really had no idea how lucky we were. On Fridays this restaurant offers steak or salmon with chips. Katie and I each chose the $15 Pepper-Crusted Fillet and Katie swears it is the best beef she has ever had! Top of my list too and the Chips or fries were also fantastic. Mix that with a gorgeous day on an outdoor patio at a winery and it is heaven. We barely had energy to tour the nearby Dylan Studio Sculpture Garden but that was spectacular. Several acres of gardens and ponds with sculptures big and small throughout. Later, we had dinner at a restaurant in town. As I mentioned before, serving a meal in South Africa can take a very long time. Sometimes you think they forgot about you. Katie and I weren’t terribly hungry after our delicious steak lunch but it was 8 when we arrived and were seated. At 9:30 we hadn’t had dinner yet and asked for the check. Oh well, I’ve got plenty to live off of at this point.

Rayete Vineyards
Fillet Lunch at Rust en Vrede
Dylan Sculpture Garden
Dylan Sculpture Garden

In the am we drove out the same single lane road as the day before. Past Keermont to de Trafford Vineyards, a highly  regarded old school wine, again we were the only people there and it was a Saturday. We spoke with and were served by Fred the assistant winemaker. He had apprenticed at Alpha-Omega in Napa some years ago. Learned much again. Bought wines again and drove off to our next abode in Franschhoek. Our cottage wasn’t quite ready so we visited a local craft fair. The cottage turned out to be stunning having recently been built by the owners who lived on the property. We visited  Anthonij Rupert Wine that afternoon which was a beautiful property surrounded by sawtooth mountains. We ended our wine tour with a glass of wine at Ernie Els Vineyard. Again big views of the valley and he had a chipping tee box with some clubs to entertain you. Dinner was at Babel which is a restaurant at Babylonstoren Gardens. Acres of tended gardens with ample fruit, vegetables and herbs. Wonderful dinner included our first taste ever of Mulberries.

Antonij Rupert Wyne
Ernie Els Vineyard

We spent our last full day in Africa driving along the Eastern coast of the Cape, stopping at Boulder Beach to see African Penguins. Probably a hundred or so on the beach and rocks. Some were going in and out of the water there. Others were feeding their young. They have a system for parking in South Africa. Sometimes a fellow in a colored vest will point you at an open spot. Sometimes there is no one around and you pull into the open spot. Either way the people in vests would like a tip. Nothing aggressive though we have heard vest people fighting over an area to work. We drove on to Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point hiking out to the end of the latter. Farthest South I have been for sure. Katie noticed an info sign showing some Ostriches on a beach up North in the park. We drove to it and sure enough, there on the beach were Ostriches. There were also many Antelopes that looked related to Topi or Tsessebe. Stood just yards from them. We stopped in Noordhoek at a very local brewpub. Older longhaired crowd with initially a guy on bagpipes out in the parking lot. He later moved inside and played the guitar and harmonica. We could use him in the Better with Beer band. We found a guest house in Hout Bay not far away and went to look at the room. We were the only guests. Our room had a large balcony with views over the bay. Katie and I had cheese, crackers, olives, and wine watching the sun go down toasting our time in Africa. Today we drove back and forth along Chapman’s Peak Road, a toll road somewhat reminiscent of Big Sur. A walk along the beach at Hout Bay leads us to our seat here in the Premier Lounge at Capetown International Airport. Next stop Johannesburg, then change planes for the long trip to Berlin arriving sometime tomorrow.

African Penguins
Cape Point Atlantic to the right Indian Ocean to the left.
Hout Bay

Botswana- The Final Chapter

Ms. Leopard on a Hunt

This morning, no dogs chasing Impala through the camp. We set off for Mokoro canoes. Our drive led us past Giraffes which are commonly seen in the am. There were 50 or so Cape Buffalo in a similar spot as last night. We checked on the newborn Ostriches but could not see any as the male Ostrich was now sitting on the nest. We made it to a shallow marsh on the edge of the Okavango Delta where 3 Mokoro Canoes were waiting. Each canoe held 2 plus a guide who used a long pole to push the canoe through the marsh. We plied the waters between day water lilies and tall marsh grass. The canoes felt very unstable though no one tipped over. We found frogs, well, after they were pointed out to us and really they were only a foot from our faces. Katie and I find many sticks and bushes that look like animals but aren’t. The frogs make this bell like sound at night, a huge chorus, but they are only an inch long. The trip was short and we were back in the Landcruiser by 8. We found a small pride of Lions laying in the shade with their bellies distended and there legs smeared with blood. A morning kill obviously. We watched as 2 young lions took turns cleaning each other. We came across some Elephants that were doing their daily move from the woodland to the water but they had stopped to let the baby elephants lie down and rest. I was fascinated that the females stood surrounding the sleeping baby, each looking out in a different direction. The rest of the way back to camp was hot and dusty, all of us trying to spot Leopards but to no avail. The tracks were there on the ground but we could not find their resting spot. Again we saw the wild dogs resting in the shade. After brunch, we said goodbye to Pavel and Alice as they are off to another camp. Time for a siesta on our veranda. There are Giraffe and Impalas in the distance. Part of our siesta was spent at the lodge pool. G&Ts with Kudu’s visiting the waterhole in the background. We set off on a safari to the East for the first time at this camp. The landscape was mostly dry with an occasional pan. Few large animal sightings though we had fun identifying birds. Judith and I have taken to ticking off a provided animal list as we see them. No Bingo yet but close. Our guide and tracker drove around a pan that they knew was frequented by a young female mother Leopard. He stopped, broke out binoculars which is rare, read prints in the dirt and then gave up driving slowly away while muttering where are you mother. A couple hundred yards on he’s eyeballing some Impalas in the distance. They have begun straining up their necks and directing their heads towards the pan. He spun the vehicle around and approached the pan from around a corner. There was the Leopard at the waters edge. We slowly advanced and positioned the Landcruiser in the path of her suspected departure. A small group of Zebras marched in from the side, right at the Leopard. In fact, as the Leopard passed by they followed and seemed to be taunting her. Apparently Zebras, unless very young, are too much for a Leopard and I guess they knew it. We followed the Leopard to thick brush that forced us to stop. We made a large circle around the bush. Somehow we arrived right at the Leopard’s exit point from the Mapone forest. She moved into the open savannah passing within feet of us. She climbed up an old tree stump for a better view over the grass, clearly hunting. We were back in front of her path when she spotted a family of Kudu in the distance. She slowly sank into the grass and patiently waited as the sun dropped from the sky. We watched for a while but moved back to the pan for a sundowner of cocktails. In the distance a family of Elephants watched us. The guide knew they were thirsty so we stayed pretty quiet and slowly they moved towards the pan. First the largest female, then the second largest, then the young one who positioned themself between the two females to drink, then finally the youngest. The sun set and slowly the Elephants moved away, not before tossing dirt on their back to keep the bugs off. Another great safari. High Fives and Pula (cheers) all around. The skills and knowledge of these guides and trackers is unbelievable. It feels almost scripted but it is not. A night drive back to camp and a dinner set up under the stars. 

Mokoro Canoe
African Elephant
Leopard on a Hunt

We decided to go on a last morning safari before our flight out. Josiah, our driver, planned a route towards the airport but included stops at the newborn Ostriches, now 5 in number, and of course Elephants, Giraffes, boy Impalas chasing each other, Kudus, and a variety of birds including a Wattled Crane we had not seen before. We spent a bit of time searching tracks in the dirt as there was a confused pattern of lion and leopard prints on the ground. Our tracker was out of the car some 100 yards from us searching for them. That doesn’t seem wise now, does it. We did find 5 young female and 1 male Lion in the shade of a bush not far away and a male Lion resting in the shade of a tree on a termite hill. We had morning break at the bush airport with a number of other guests that were leaving. EZ flight to Maun then connected to a flight to Capetown. In route now. I should be able to get reasonable internet access at the hotel in Capetown so hope to post some of this soon.

Open-Billed Stork
Goodbye Botswana

Botswana- Splash Camp

it was brought to my attention that some of the picture pages were not loading properly I think I have fixed that up to Botswana. Check out Pictures of our lives/Around the World. Thanks for checking.

Welcoming Committee

EZ 20 minute flight over quite a bit of burned ground. You could see areas still on fire. At Splash camp we quickly unpacked and then set off on an evening safari with Josiah and Gomms as our driver/guide and tracker. Many herds of Giraffe and even more Elephants. The first Giraffes we saw were eating huge sausages out of a sausage tree. They were struggling with sausages only at the furthest of their reach, their long tongues way out trying to grab them. Some would try swallowing them whole but then end up spitting them out like they were choking on them. The Elephants  seemed to be all over the place and we followed some for a short while to a watering hole where they drank and bathed. The landscape was burnt in many areas and even smoldering in some. The main fire went through about 10 days before. Surprisingly there were new shoots of green grass coming up in some of the burned areas. Close by were pristine watering holes with green vegetation everywhere. Many Lechwe, Impalas, Tssesabe, Kudus, and Hippos. A sundowner at a pan provided another stunning sunset. The 1 hour drive back to camp in the dark provided views of a Verreaux Owl and Springhares. Just before camp the guide and tracker heard Wild Dogs, one of the most endangered mammals in Africa. We drove to them only to see if they appeared hungry. They don’t like to interfere with diurnal animals during the night so our stay was very brief and with no direct lights. The guide guaranteed a hunt by the dogs in the morning as they looked hungry. A nice dinner with all the camp guests including people from Britain, Holland, Germany, and The Czech Republic. Katie and I are the only Americans. The morning breakfast was interrupted by an Impala being chased by a Wild Dog! They ran right by us and then back again. The guides noted some unusual howling from the dogs and suspected a large predator had come near. We jumped into the Landcruisers and gave chase. We found 2 packs of Wild Dogs chasing each other. One dog had obvious blood on his back leg and was limping. We found him later all alone and calling for his pack. So sad. However, after a wait, a call from other dogs was heard and the dogged limped back towards camp, eventually reuniting with 3 other adults from his pack and 2 pups. The 6 dogs now waited, listening for what turned out to be 4 others of their pack. We later found them all hunting again. Today seemed to be a day for animal fighting. First the dogs but then we came upon a large troop of Baboons. Large males were chasing various members about, bellowing as they went. Little ones dangled from little branches way up in the tree and a mother carrying her baby on her stomach ran up and down, inside and out of a tree trying to avoid the male. We later saw a large group of mostly male Impalas where several pairs faced off ramming and twisting their horns against each other. At a pan further along there was a large group of White Faced Whistling Ducks sitting quietly in groups of 20-30. Soon fighting erupted with ducks jumping all about. We spotted a male Ostrich in the distance and after getting closer, we found the female laying on a nest. Not easily spotted were 3 newborns just on the side of her and a few minutes later a fourth appeared. They sat for a few minutes but then began ‘walking’ or really careening about. Two steps and fall to the side or backwards. Over the next 20 minutes or so they kept getting better and better but were now some 30 feet from their mother and at great risk from predators like Eagles or Hyenas. The mom got up to go corral them, revealing 9 more eggs in the nest ready to hatch. Finally, we had our coffee break at a pan just off the edge of the recent fire. Two warthogs came down to drink. One large and one medium. After their drink they faced off for about 5 minutes, ramming heads, locking tusks, and violently twisting their heads. When we left the two were sitting together in the shade temporarily at peace. Back to camp slowly with multiple other encounters but no fights. Siesta time for all. HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRIAN! (from Katie)

Sausage Tree
Success
Wild Dog
Baboon

Our afternoon game drive was a ride on a powerboat out to a heron rookery. We drove for about 45 minutes to get to the boat. We saw Elephants bathing and playing in the water, Hippos guarding their pool, and wild dogs sleeping in the shade. The boat held the 6 of us, Pavel and Alice from The Czech Republic, John and Judith from England and Katie and I. We set off through the marsh grasses in narrow channels. At one intersection there was a large Hippo. We waited patiently, then when sure of where he was, sped by. Farther along were 4 more Hippos, opening their mouths as we passed to show us how big they were, just like the Jungle Ride at Disneyland!. Katie and I moved to the upper deck of this 18 foot aluminum powerboat. The views were spectacular. We all had to mind exactly where we were sitting and coordinate any movements with others as the boat was tenuously balanced. Nobody else wanted to go up top so we had our own little world weaving down the channels with occasional Elephants on the banks or in the water and many different birds sitting in trees or flying around us. We reached the end goal which was a Heron Rookery. There were a hundred plus parents in various stages of birth. Some building nests, some incubating eggs and some feeding young hatchlings. There were huge, 3 foot tall Maribu Stork feeding their dinosaur looking babies. Yellow Bill Storks with their furry white hatchlings, and Open Bill Storks which did not have any observable hatchlings yet. Quite a riot of noise when various parents brought fish back to the young ones. We headed back as the sun was setting. Happy Hour of G&T’s for Katie and I up top as our boat motored down the channel. Beautiful, outrageous sunset and we pulled in to where the Landcruiser was parked just as darkness came on. 45 minutes back to camp with headlights and spotlight. Nothing new seen though there were Springhares, Impala, Cape Buffalo, and Elephants along the way. Dinner was great as usual and again great conversation with the other guests at the table. A Honey Badger tiptoed by the dinner table as the evening came to a close. One of the best Birthdays for me!

Hippo Sharing View of His Teeth
Sharing the Waterway
Yellow-Bill Storks and Chicks
Maribou Stork Chicks, or are they Dinosaurs?

Pula Botswana

Lioness with 6 month old cub

We were driven across the border to Botswana. We were told it was the second or third poorest country in Africa but it certainly does not seem like it unless Zimbabwe is number one. The roads were paved and the airport was big and new. The driver pointed out the new bridge across the Zambezi River, built by the Chinese. We flew to our camp, Labala, in the Kwando Reserve. The land below our airplane appeared much different than Kenya or Tanzania, very dry with many barren trees. There were multiple fires visible along the borders of dry land and marsh. We were later told these were the result of spontaneous combustion or they were started by Namibians who were clearing fields as the border to that country is very close. The airport was a dirt runway with a shack at the end. Our tracker(Hakeem) and guide/driver(Elvis, yes he is in the building) met us when the airplane stopped.  Katie and I were the only 2 getting off. Our camp was not far away and it is gorgeous. Huge open sitting area that looks out onto the grasses, a large fire pit area for sitting and conversing at Happy Hour. There is a small pool, an elevated ‘hide’ to look out on a marsh, and our room was complete with kingsize bed, double sinks and double outdoor showers. We came back for our pre-drive tea though we had G&T’s (best we’ve had so far). Out from the veranda were Baboons, Lechwe which are Antelopes, and Lions!. Our first drive included 2 other guests Don & Gill from Britain, our first safari with other guests. They had tracked Lions the day before and all had heard many loud lion sounds later in the night. The guide expected to find a kill today. We set off through 5-6 foot tall grasses just plowing through with the Landcruiser. Not too far from our camp we came upon a male, several females, some teenagers and 2 young cubs all eating and sleeping around a dead Elephant. The guides were not sure why the elephant died as it is unusual for lions to attack them but maybe it was sick beforehand. The elephant did not appear that old but certainly was not a baby. We watched the somewhat gruesome sight for a while then set off along marshland. Many elephants were seen, numerous birds that Don & Gill were quick to identify as they are birders and finally a group of female lions with 6 month old cubs along the water. They played around our vehicle for a while before we set off as it was now getting on to sunset. We pulled over at an open area and watched the sun go down with wine and cocktails served. Beautiful colors made more dramatic by the nearby fires. We drove an hour or so in the dark back to camp. Hakeem swung his strobe light from right to left finding wild cats(not feral domestic type, though they looked like that), hares and foxes. We showered back at camp and had a wonderful dinner with all our lovely British co-guests. Apparently it is an easy affordable ticket now from Britain so everybody is doing it. Only 8 total in camp so very comfy and private.

Labala cabin bedroom with bathroom in background
Dead Elephant

We had coffee brought to us at 5:15 with granola at 5:45. Our drive began at 6:15 and we headed back to the dead elephant to see what was new. The report was it would take the lions at least a couple weeks to winnow it down to something they weren’t interested in anymore. Then the Hyenas would come in. Then the vultures and storks. Storks? Yes, like up north, there are scavenging storks. The Elephant was there, a little different than the day before but not dramatically. The young lions practiced pouncing on each other while the large male slept. All would go over to the Elephant intermittently to take a bite. We moved on looking for leopards. They don’t go up in trees here like they did up north but they are present and we did find Leopard tracks on the road. Many different birds seen and identified with the help of Don and Gill. We stopped for coffee and biscuits at a pond, seeing crocodiles, wildebeest and zebras around it. 6 lions then emerged across the way and slowly, single file they marched to the water. Closeup you could see the Lions had some blood on them. The guide suspected a recent kill so they a needed to drink and wash up. We left them all horizontal in the shade of a large bush. We slowly motored through the thick fine sand back to camp stopping for Southern Giraffes, and herds of Elephant. Brunch was at 11:30 and now it is siesta time on the veranda. The temperatures during the day are in the high 90’s but overnight it luckily cools and is comfortable. For the afternoon, we drove out to a Hyena den. 6 pups of various ages, no mom. They wrestled, bit ears, and generally acted like puppies. Many Elephants again along our way but we primarily drove west which became very dry and sandy. Current and former watering holes are called pans and we toured quite a few looking for traces of wild dogs. No luck there. We did see a Water Monitor (a large lizard) near one hole that had water. He was about 4 feet long. We drove back towards camp. Stopped for a beautiful sundowner that had Elephants walking by some 50 yards from us. Our drive at night revealed bat-eared foxes, Spring Hare,  and Eagle Owl. Dinner of Roast Beef, vegetables, Red Wine and much discussion with our British and South African friends about America and a variety of current worldly issues.  All good. Many Lion roars in the night. They have their issues too.

A Dazzle of Zebras
3 of 6 Lions Resting After a Kill

Our am drive led us quickly to the Hyena den as the report was Wild Dogs were there. Sure enough 8 Wild Dogs who were initially lounging around the den when we arrived began attacking the lone female Hyena in order to get to her pups and kill them. Not to eat them. Just kill them so as to eliminate competition. The Hyena fended them off until all at once both Dogs and the Hyena stopped in their tracks and looked out beyond our Jeep. The assumption was a Lion was nearby and that fact took on top priority. Baboons began to sound off from a nearby tree which also went along with a nearby bigger predator. The 8 dogs all took off but we followed them to a clearing not too far away. There they played like dogs, pouncing on various siblings, wrestling, biting ears and sides. No growling or barking just high pitched squeaking. Several came right up to the car looking in but no aggression to us was seen. We left and found Leopard tracks along the road. Elvis and Hakeem followed the tracks into and over the bush, past wet and dry pans to eventually a dead-end. Oh well, it was a wild ride through the bush anyway. On our return to the road a Bull Elephant was startled in front of us. He began trumpeting, tossing his head about, waving his ears and fast walking at our car. We sped up and escaped but I think primarily because the Elephant didn’t run. Just wanted to say he wasn’t really afraid. Something was in the air as a smaller female Elephant also became annoyed with us while we were driving on the road. She began shaking her head, flapping her ears and now running towards our car. We were farther away from the start so no problem but jeez. Found many Giraffes eating at a medium size bush, another Monitor Lizard, and Greater Kudu, a very large antelope with beautifully spiraled horns on the male. A group of 6 Kudu were heading towards a pan for water but they initially did not see the 7 Lions that were parked there in the shade of a bush. Just before getting to the water an alert went out. The basic response is freeze. Slowly some young Kudus crept to the water and drank while a male stood watch. They slowly retreated and needless to say but ‘kudus’ to them for escaping with their lives. Back to camp for brunch and a siesta. High 90’s in the afternoon so shorts and flip-flops. We headed out for a long drive to the West. Very beautiful landscape changing from deep sand and stout mapone trees to green marsh plentiful with birds and mammals. We found 2 Cheetah brothers under a bush mostly sleeping as several Landcruisers moved about for a view. We had sunset drinks in a dry pan with a beautiful sunset. As it got dark, Katie asked to see an Aardvark. Sure enough not 15 minutes later, an Aardvark was caught in the car lights. Our driver and guide had never seen an Aardvark during their work at this conservancy. A great day, and I know that is getting old to hear. How about another great dinner and conversation. Oh well, not getting tired of it. Last night the male Lions frequently roared during the night. They sounded right off our veranda.

Wild Dog
Hakeem, Used as Bait at the Front of our Landcruiser
Mom and Baby Hyena
1 of 8 Wild Dogs Attacking
Kudus at a Pan
Tussling Pumbas

In the am we visited the downed Elephant of some 3 days ago. Terrible smell as approaching and only stayed a very short time. The Lions are making progress but there is a ways to go. We drove off sighting a female lion making her way across an open field. We followed. The guides suggested the mother had moved her 7 week old cubs from the Elephant area to a safer spot. We followed and followed. She eventually led us to her cubs, tucked in an area with many tall bushes. She called for her cubs and they came running to her, jumping on top of her and frolicking about. We watched for 20 minutes or so. The mom then got up and walked towards our Landcruiser stopping some 10’ away and laid down. She called her cubs and they came running. We watched for another 20 minutes. So special. We left them and cruised along intermittent marsh land, seeing new birds and ones we’d already identified. We stopped at a herd of Elephants that had 2 or 3 babies. They slowly marched by us as they leisurely ate. One came up to our tracker who was sitting in a chair on the front bumper. No contact but looked for sure like she was gonna check him out with her trunk. We had coffee and biscuits at another pan. Hakeem gave us a talk about the animal tracks and poop there, how pans form, (animals eating the dirt for minerals when the grass is in low supply) and the Ant Lion, one of the ‘Little Five’. We have seen another member, the Leopard Tortoise. Other members are the Buffalo Weaver, the Elephant Shrew, and the Rhinoceros Beetle. We drove on seeing the Goliath Heron come up out of reeds and 3 beautiful Spoonbill birds on the shore. Back to camp for showers and brunch. A champagne toast on arrival as it is Independence Day in Botswana, 56 years since British rule. We are off by bush plane to Splash Camp for 3 nights.

Lioness with Three 5 week old Cubs

Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe

Victoria Falls

We had a 2 hour drive out to the Lamai airport in the Serengeti and along the way we saw a variety of animals including 3 male lions just off the dirt road. We flew to Kilamanjaro where we could connect with a small plane to Nairobi. Though Mt. Kilamanjaro is over 19000 feet high we could really only see its shoulders from the airplane as the clouds were thick. A shock at the airport! They had a Priority Pass Lounge. We had some bites and drinks while we awaited our connection. The flight to Nairobi was just Katie and I. How can that make money? The only note on Nairobi is the Gin & Tonics in the hotel bar were $25 each. We forgot to ask ahead of time. Somehow they always get you. We flew to Livingstone, Zambia in the am and were then driven across the border to Zimbabwe and Victoria Falls. We paid $60 to explore the park at Victoria Falls. Luckily there is still water as we are nearing the end of the dry season. My leg was attacked by a local baboon on the way in. No scars, well I am a little jumpy now. Glad it wasn’t a lion. We ate out at the Lookout Cafe with wonderful views of the bridge and river. We toured some art markets the following day, which led to a discussion over beers and eventually 2 sculptures that we are having shipped home. The people of Zimbabwe are very poor. Some years ago Mugabe the president took all the farmland away from the white owners and gave it to the black citizens. They were unable to afford developing or using the land so it now sits fallow. Apparently Zimbabwe was known as the breadbasket of Africa. No longer. There is reportedly 90% unemployment. In 2009 they experienced hyperinflation with banknotes printed representing billions. Youths are now on the streets trying to sell theses notes to tourists. When you are walking around town, young men follow and beg for money. Very sad though violence and theft is said to be low.

Victoria Falls
Yes that’s a guy standing on the edge

Devil’s Pool

Tanzania-the Northern Serengeti

Lioness and Her Cub

We had an easy entry into Tanzania thanks to the help of our driver Mary. At the airstrip we met Hussein (Seni) and Felix, our guide and driver. We drove quite a distance to camp for lunch with sightings of Cheetahs, Water Buck, Secretary Bird, Long-crested Eagle, an Oribi, a small antelope, and a recently fallen Wildebeest with at least 20 Rupel and White-backed Vulteres and Malibu Storks cleaning up. Can’t see that stork delivering babies! We were greeted at the mobile camp by Lily, Leon, And 3 or 4 others. The camp has 2 sections and we are currently the only people in our section. Our tent is large with a king bed, a sink with a bucket of cold water, though they bring hot water in the am to wash. There is a regular toilet and a shower. The shower requires you to notify staff to warm up a bucket of water. They hang it up and you take quick intermittent flow showers. We had lunch with chocolate moose for dessert. I guess they have refrigeration here though everything is solar or battery run. After a bit of relaxation we went out for the evening drive. Again what is remarkable is the distance of the drives. The roads are somewhat better than Mara North so the speed is faster but the park is 10 times the size of Masai Mara and Mara North is a small conservancy outside of the park. We saw quite a variety of birds. There were some giraffes, elephants, zebras, and wart hogs. The finale were 3 female lions. Each coming together from a distance and greeting each other. Seni, our guide said there were young cubs to feed so he expected them to hunt overnight. We searched and found the mother and 2 five week old cubs that were curious and playful. One was a little too curious and got very close to the cruiser. She was staring at me like I did something evil, and Felix stalled the car trying to make a get-away. Yikes. Luckily we made our escape and mom picked up the wayward child in her mouth and carried it away. We had dinner with Lily, a 26 year old tourism graduate. Midway through donner some boys came in telling us Seni had something for us to see. Come Quick! Turns out he caught a 10-12 foot Python. He explained all about the snake and then had Katie hold it. katie’s main concern was that the snake was very heavy. from where I was standing some 10 feet away it looked big and heavy! We were up at 5:20 and on the road by 6 the next day. We headed out to see if the lions had made a kill. We found the dead Wildebeest, what was left of it anyway. Seni reenacted the crime from clues on the ground then we were off to the river. There are 10 crossing areas for the Wildebeest. Zebras, and Gazelles. We staked out one and watched thousands of primarily Wildebeest shuffle around near the crossings. Such a game of follow the leader. One goes one direction and many follow. Others go a different direction and many follow. We waited about 2 hours for the crossing to begin. We had breakfast in the shade waiting for word. You didn’t want to get too close to the herd and spook them. Other cars along both sides of the river were watching and would send out a signal the crossing began. The crossing finally began but it was at crossing one away from ours so we sped over to it. Thousands of primarily Wildebeests jumping in the water and bounding across. Some turn back. Some turn back after crossing. Some can’t get up the bank on the other side though there is a gradual slope close by. Not the brightest animals. One Wildebeest could not find a way up and started swimming back but was swept mostly downstream. It was pulled underwater once then for good the second time. Crocodile! We moved to a second crossing where again thousands of Wildebeests made a dash across the river with much chaos leading up to the jump in the river. This time we saw a Crocodile waiting a little downstream but he did not attack anyone we saw. Back to camp for lunch and a mighty rain. Thunder/Lightning and a good inch of rain. We are safe with a beer in the dining tent. The afternoon drive took us out to the Tanzania/Kenya border. Along the way we saw two lions hunting along a creek bed. One attempted to run down a Wildebeest but she was unsuccessful. We did catch the elusive Bat-ear foxes running up the slope. We saw the Great-crowned Crane which is the national bird of Uganda. Also, the Sacred Ibis which the Egyptians felt brought needed water. We saw many Banded Mongoose which take over portions of Termite mounds to live in. We caught sight of a Verreaux Owl in a tree near the road. Apparently the largest owl in Tanzania. Intermittent rain followed us home but remarkably the roads were not terrible, at least for a 4 wheel drive. On the way to happy hour when dark, our flashlights revealed many eyes about camp. We think they were Impalas. We met Allison and Pierre, new arrivals from Florida who were terrific. They shared their gorilla stories from there just finished trip to Rwanda.

Happy Hour
Seni Caught a Python
Katie Had to Hold It!
Wildebeast Beginning a Crossing of the Mara River

Today we embarked on a walking safari with Seni, Felix plus an added ranger from the National Park service. The ranger had an AK47 and Seni had an Elephant gun. Nothing to worry about. Right! We ended up walking over 3 miles along the Mara River and into the bush and grasslands. Huge Crocodiles in the river and many Hippos. Seni was awesome with detailed info on animal footprints, poop, and various ecosystems. If you saw a footprint he would talk about why it looked like it did, from paws and claws to gait. We did the same with poop. What the diet was, what the locals and the animals did with it. He is an amazing source of knowledge and clearly is in love with nature. Two doctors from southern California met him as a guide on Kilimanjaro years ago. They were impressed so much by him that they paid for his higher education at the university where he studied zoology and wildlife management. We would come upon a dead Wildebeast and he would explain about who probably killed it based on the animals position and what was eaten. Many skeletal remains were present along the river which led to discussions on kinesiology and morphology. Early on we were in the midst of a group of Hyenas, probably around 14 in total. Seni said we had nothing to fear but they followed us at a distance for quite awhile. Stumbled upon a Leopard Tortoise in the middle of the Serengeti, What! Apparently lives to 70 and not much can actually feed on it. Later we saw a Terapin in a small watering hole. They set up a breakfast table along the river where we had bacon, banana muffins, pineapple and granola. I am glad we walked the 31/2 miles. We drove out seeing Dwarf Mongoose, many banded Mongoose’s(Mongeese?) , a quick look at running Vervit Monkey’s, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Baboons, a Long Crested Eagle, and A Fish Eagle (looks like a bald eagle). Lunch now sipping beer in the shade on some lounge chairs.

CSI Seniwalking Safari
CSI Seni
Our Lounge Chairs

Back in the lounge chairs today to add a little to the blog. I mention many animal names mainly so I can remember them. We drove out along a creek bed as many animals use the area for rest and protection. 2 large male lions were resting in the grass.  You can basically drive right up to them without disturbing them much. Many pregnant animals along the drive including Hyenas, Zebras, and Topi. Beautiful views of the Serengeti, Wildebeest, Zebras, and Gazelles coating the land. We stopped on the road at sunset to watch the sun go down. Spectacular! At dinner we met Alex Walker the British owner of both are current camp and the one we stayed at in Kenya. Very nice and engaging. Certainly made you feel welcome. It was just Katie and I are first night in camp. Now there 8 of us. Three couples are from California and one couple is from Tampa Bay. To bed early for a 5:30 wakeup. Our main guide Hussein apparently was sent to the airport to pick someone up, VIP I suppose. We added a Masai fellow who spoke little English but did point out a few animals along the way. Our goal was Leopards today as we had not been able to sight any in Tanzania so far. Early in our drive we found a lioness and 2 baby cubs probable a month or less old. We watched them for 15 min or so then off to the creek bed again. We spotted a den of Hyenas with 2 pups playing and 5 adults circling about. We drove along the creek bed for quite a distance but no male lions this time. We saw many different birds, including a variety of Eagles, Vultures, Bustards, Lapwings, Rollers, and Kingfishers. No luck with Leopards early on but once on the other side of the creek bed we spotted a female adult male up in a tree by the creek. Occasionally he would look about but mostly he had his head down asleep in the tree. After about 30 min we opted for an outdoor breakfast just down the road. We drove after breakfast and found a male adult Leopard up in a tree. He too was primarily relaxing with an occasional head lift. We found some Vervit Monkeys up in a tree near the Leopard. They were shouting warnings to each other about the Leopard. We slowly drove back to camp, winding our way through Wildebeest, Zebras, Water Buck, Gazelles and more. Now resting for our afternoon drive. Tomorrow we are off to Nairobi.

Relaxing Leopard
Lioness Carrying Cub

Late wakeup at 6:30! Breakfast at 7 and a sendoff by the staff. 2 hour drive to the airport slowing to look at a vaiety of animals along the way. piece de resistance are the 3 male lions lying in the grass close to the road. full plane to Kilamanjaro airport. we could not see the top of the mountain due to clouds. we found a lovely new lounge in the airport, seems we were some of their first guests since opening. a little salad, a little beef stew, some chips and white wine. we caught our flight to Nairobi without problem and we are the only 2 people on the plane! they can’t have made any money on that flight or at least I hope not as I paid for the trip 3 years ago.

Typical Plane