We arrived in Milan after an hour or so weather delay. Had an easy drive to Lake Iseo and a good night sleep in our hotel on the lake there. In the am after a provided lovely breakfast we headed out into the burbs here which is a DOC called ‘Franciacorta’, an area specializing in sparkling wine made using the Methode Champagne. Can’t call it champagne though. We tried one place which turned out to be closed to visitors and since another was close by we said well one more try before we drive on. Antica Attica. Fantastic! The receptionist said well I do have a couple bottles open that you could try so I called Katie in from the car. She was pretty sure there would be no tastings today. I did namedrop that we lived near Napa and what do you know, the grandson of the owner comes out and sits with us for the next hour opening and pouring many of his sparkling wines. He also gave us a tour of his cellars and was just all in all awesome. Some of the bubbles were equal to some we’ve had in Champagne and he told us his wine has been selected to be served at the Emmy’s this year. What a great find.
We drove up north along the lake and then on towards Bolzano trying to stay on smaller roads rather than the autostrasse. It did take longer this way and the journey was a constant flow of 1 lane and windy roads but the countryside was just spectacular. Just east of Bolzano was our resting place for the next four nights, Ortisei. Placed in the middle of Val Gardenia, the city provides not only great views but easy access to superb hikes.
In the morning we drove to the valley to the north of us, Val di Funes, where we were introduced to hiking in the Dolomites. We parked right at the trail to the church, Santa Magdalena. This church is apparently famous on Tik Toc because of some pictures of the church with the Geisler Group in the background.
Chat GPT didn’t give me all the important info with the transportation and parking in this area so we got back to our car after our hike and drove off up the valley for our next hike. Mind you there were cars lined up to get our $13 parking spot. We drove up the road less than a mile and we were turned back. No parking available further up the road! So we turned around and got in line with a few other cars waiting for an open parking spot at the place we just left! After about 15 minutes we were able to snag a spot but the bus going up the hill had passed by a few minutes before. We checked the schedule at the stop and of course they run once an hour. A few swear words with both inner and outer voices as we waited. The bus showed up 15 min late but we got a seat and on up we went to Zanes parking area where we started the Adolf-Munkel Trail. This led us up about 1500 feet and along the base of Furchetta and Sass Rigais, peaks that are part of the Geisler Group. The first part of the trail was kind of a slog up thru forested hills, climbing over tree roots and mud pits, but the at the base of the peaks, gorgeous. Just stunning mountains erupting from the hills. Maybe three quarters of the way along our hike we came to Refugio Geisleralm.
A kleine beer for each while we stared at the peaks and the cows in the fields. These Refugio’s are amazing. We finished our 6 mile hike and caught the bus back to our parking lot. I think the bus lines are like what I hear the ski lift lines are like. A glob of people all trying to get in the same door. There is no defined line just a glob.
We made it back to the hotel and then off for our dinner at Tubladel. It is supposed to be a Michelin starred restaurant but I thought it was just ok.
In the am, again after a lovely breakfast we were off to the Seceda Cable car. We had made an 8:30 reservation yesterday while we were hiking the trail and sure enough a ton of people in line. You ride up an 8 seater gondola then transfer to a 60 person cable car that whisks you up some 1250 feet in total.
$85 each for a round trip ticket. Once at the top the views are everywhere and unending. We followed an All Trails route that ended up being 7 miles and 1750 elevation gain. Pretty crowded which Katie and I and other travelers occasionally wondered out loud, what is it like in the summer here!? People would wait in line to take a picture from one spot, where if you moved just a little bit you would get essentially the same picture. I don’t get it sometimes. We hiked and hiked up and down with stunning views with us 100% of the time.
We did come across a cow on the narrow trail at one point that had everyone scrambling off the trail to get around. Katie tried her friendliest petting but the cow just head butted her! She was not gonna move. And I mean the cow. Katie and I scrambled off the trail to get around her.
We did manage a beer at another Refugio. This was Firenze and it looked out at Sassolongo, a very impressive peak jutting out of the valley.
We rode the lifts back down, stopped in town for an ice cream then up to the hotel for a swim in the pool. We sampled some local cheeses and champagne on our patio. Dinner out later at Ultaria de Chacco, known for its traditional food. Katie had a Caprese salad and then Canderli (dumplings of spinach and speck in a beef broth). I had a pea soup with speck then some cheese ravioli with a pumpkin sauce. All very good.
After another hearty breakfast we were off on a driving tour of four passes that circumnavigate the Sella Massif. We chose a Sunday drive for no particular reason but we were so lucky as they closed the passes to cars the day before, a twice a year event known as Sellaround allowing bikes a wide open road around all the passes. Now I can’t say there were just a few bikes going up and over the multiple passes on this Sunday the day after the official Sellaround. I thought there were gobs or hoards of bicyclists making the trip along with about a thousand motorcyclists. Well despite the fellow travelers, we had a terrific ride with fantastic views along the way. The road was very narrow the majority of the way with many hairpin turns mixed in. You definitely had to slow or stop at some points to let a bus or truck go by in the ‘other’ lane and equally to pass clumps of cyclists climbing the hill ever so slowly. Now downhill, a different story. I had motorcycles whizzing by on blind curves and cyclists passing me on the left despite me being a car length behind the car in front of me of me! A highlight was a stop at Passo Pordoi and a ride to the top of the Sella Massif in a gondola. 360 degree views over the Sella formation and views of Sassolongo and Marmolada. Amazing.
We completed our circuit around 1 o’clock so we gathered from our hotel some of our previously bought cheeses, sausage, crackers and apples and headed up Mount Seuc in the gondola which was next to our hotel. This ride dropped us off in Alpe de Suisi. This is a high alpine valley with multiple trails, refugios, and unending views of Sassolongo, the Sella Masif, and the Geisler group. A mecca for biking as it turns out and influencers working on the ultimate pose for their selfies.
After our lunch on the grass looking out over the valley we ended up with a 3 mile loop ending at a refugio where we had our first Aperol Spritz. Lovely. We rode a lift and gondola back to the base in Ortesei where our hotel is and went for a swim. Today we had a short drive to Cortina d’Ampezzo crossing Passo Giau which we will hike to over the coming days on our Hut to Hut adventure. Welcome to Cortina d’Ampezzo
Ciao!