We were driven across the border to Botswana. We were told it was the second or third poorest country in Africa but it certainly does not seem like it unless Zimbabwe is number one. The roads were paved and the airport was big and new. The driver pointed out the new bridge across the Zambezi River, built by the Chinese. We flew to our camp, Labala, in the Kwando Reserve. The land below our airplane appeared much different than Kenya or Tanzania, very dry with many barren trees. There were multiple fires visible along the borders of dry land and marsh. We were later told these were the result of spontaneous combustion or they were started by Namibians who were clearing fields as the border to that country is very close. The airport was a dirt runway with a shack at the end. Our tracker(Hakeem) and guide/driver(Elvis, yes he is in the building) met us when the airplane stopped. Katie and I were the only 2 getting off. Our camp was not far away and it is gorgeous. Huge open sitting area that looks out onto the grasses, a large fire pit area for sitting and conversing at Happy Hour. There is a small pool, an elevated ‘hide’ to look out on a marsh, and our room was complete with kingsize bed, double sinks and double outdoor showers. We came back for our pre-drive tea though we had G&T’s (best we’ve had so far). Out from the veranda were Baboons, Lechwe which are Antelopes, and Lions!. Our first drive included 2 other guests Don & Gill from Britain, our first safari with other guests. They had tracked Lions the day before and all had heard many loud lion sounds later in the night. The guide expected to find a kill today. We set off through 5-6 foot tall grasses just plowing through with the Landcruiser. Not too far from our camp we came upon a male, several females, some teenagers and 2 young cubs all eating and sleeping around a dead Elephant. The guides were not sure why the elephant died as it is unusual for lions to attack them but maybe it was sick beforehand. The elephant did not appear that old but certainly was not a baby. We watched the somewhat gruesome sight for a while then set off along marshland. Many elephants were seen, numerous birds that Don & Gill were quick to identify as they are birders and finally a group of female lions with 6 month old cubs along the water. They played around our vehicle for a while before we set off as it was now getting on to sunset. We pulled over at an open area and watched the sun go down with wine and cocktails served. Beautiful colors made more dramatic by the nearby fires. We drove an hour or so in the dark back to camp. Hakeem swung his strobe light from right to left finding wild cats(not feral domestic type, though they looked like that), hares and foxes. We showered back at camp and had a wonderful dinner with all our lovely British co-guests. Apparently it is an easy affordable ticket now from Britain so everybody is doing it. Only 8 total in camp so very comfy and private.
We had coffee brought to us at 5:15 with granola at 5:45. Our drive began at 6:15 and we headed back to the dead elephant to see what was new. The report was it would take the lions at least a couple weeks to winnow it down to something they weren’t interested in anymore. Then the Hyenas would come in. Then the vultures and storks. Storks? Yes, like up north, there are scavenging storks. The Elephant was there, a little different than the day before but not dramatically. The young lions practiced pouncing on each other while the large male slept. All would go over to the Elephant intermittently to take a bite. We moved on looking for leopards. They don’t go up in trees here like they did up north but they are present and we did find Leopard tracks on the road. Many different birds seen and identified with the help of Don and Gill. We stopped for coffee and biscuits at a pond, seeing crocodiles, wildebeest and zebras around it. 6 lions then emerged across the way and slowly, single file they marched to the water. Closeup you could see the Lions had some blood on them. The guide suspected a recent kill so they a needed to drink and wash up. We left them all horizontal in the shade of a large bush. We slowly motored through the thick fine sand back to camp stopping for Southern Giraffes, and herds of Elephant. Brunch was at 11:30 and now it is siesta time on the veranda. The temperatures during the day are in the high 90’s but overnight it luckily cools and is comfortable. For the afternoon, we drove out to a Hyena den. 6 pups of various ages, no mom. They wrestled, bit ears, and generally acted like puppies. Many Elephants again along our way but we primarily drove west which became very dry and sandy. Current and former watering holes are called pans and we toured quite a few looking for traces of wild dogs. No luck there. We did see a Water Monitor (a large lizard) near one hole that had water. He was about 4 feet long. We drove back towards camp. Stopped for a beautiful sundowner that had Elephants walking by some 50 yards from us. Our drive at night revealed bat-eared foxes, Spring Hare, and Eagle Owl. Dinner of Roast Beef, vegetables, Red Wine and much discussion with our British and South African friends about America and a variety of current worldly issues. All good. Many Lion roars in the night. They have their issues too.
Our am drive led us quickly to the Hyena den as the report was Wild Dogs were there. Sure enough 8 Wild Dogs who were initially lounging around the den when we arrived began attacking the lone female Hyena in order to get to her pups and kill them. Not to eat them. Just kill them so as to eliminate competition. The Hyena fended them off until all at once both Dogs and the Hyena stopped in their tracks and looked out beyond our Jeep. The assumption was a Lion was nearby and that fact took on top priority. Baboons began to sound off from a nearby tree which also went along with a nearby bigger predator. The 8 dogs all took off but we followed them to a clearing not too far away. There they played like dogs, pouncing on various siblings, wrestling, biting ears and sides. No growling or barking just high pitched squeaking. Several came right up to the car looking in but no aggression to us was seen. We left and found Leopard tracks along the road. Elvis and Hakeem followed the tracks into and over the bush, past wet and dry pans to eventually a dead-end. Oh well, it was a wild ride through the bush anyway. On our return to the road a Bull Elephant was startled in front of us. He began trumpeting, tossing his head about, waving his ears and fast walking at our car. We sped up and escaped but I think primarily because the Elephant didn’t run. Just wanted to say he wasn’t really afraid. Something was in the air as a smaller female Elephant also became annoyed with us while we were driving on the road. She began shaking her head, flapping her ears and now running towards our car. We were farther away from the start so no problem but jeez. Found many Giraffes eating at a medium size bush, another Monitor Lizard, and Greater Kudu, a very large antelope with beautifully spiraled horns on the male. A group of 6 Kudu were heading towards a pan for water but they initially did not see the 7 Lions that were parked there in the shade of a bush. Just before getting to the water an alert went out. The basic response is freeze. Slowly some young Kudus crept to the water and drank while a male stood watch. They slowly retreated and needless to say but ‘kudus’ to them for escaping with their lives. Back to camp for brunch and a siesta. High 90’s in the afternoon so shorts and flip-flops. We headed out for a long drive to the West. Very beautiful landscape changing from deep sand and stout mapone trees to green marsh plentiful with birds and mammals. We found 2 Cheetah brothers under a bush mostly sleeping as several Landcruisers moved about for a view. We had sunset drinks in a dry pan with a beautiful sunset. As it got dark, Katie asked to see an Aardvark. Sure enough not 15 minutes later, an Aardvark was caught in the car lights. Our driver and guide had never seen an Aardvark during their work at this conservancy. A great day, and I know that is getting old to hear. How about another great dinner and conversation. Oh well, not getting tired of it. Last night the male Lions frequently roared during the night. They sounded right off our veranda.
In the am we visited the downed Elephant of some 3 days ago. Terrible smell as approaching and only stayed a very short time. The Lions are making progress but there is a ways to go. We drove off sighting a female lion making her way across an open field. We followed. The guides suggested the mother had moved her 7 week old cubs from the Elephant area to a safer spot. We followed and followed. She eventually led us to her cubs, tucked in an area with many tall bushes. She called for her cubs and they came running to her, jumping on top of her and frolicking about. We watched for 20 minutes or so. The mom then got up and walked towards our Landcruiser stopping some 10’ away and laid down. She called her cubs and they came running. We watched for another 20 minutes. So special. We left them and cruised along intermittent marsh land, seeing new birds and ones we’d already identified. We stopped at a herd of Elephants that had 2 or 3 babies. They slowly marched by us as they leisurely ate. One came up to our tracker who was sitting in a chair on the front bumper. No contact but looked for sure like she was gonna check him out with her trunk. We had coffee and biscuits at another pan. Hakeem gave us a talk about the animal tracks and poop there, how pans form, (animals eating the dirt for minerals when the grass is in low supply) and the Ant Lion, one of the ‘Little Five’. We have seen another member, the Leopard Tortoise. Other members are the Buffalo Weaver, the Elephant Shrew, and the Rhinoceros Beetle. We drove on seeing the Goliath Heron come up out of reeds and 3 beautiful Spoonbill birds on the shore. Back to camp for showers and brunch. A champagne toast on arrival as it is Independence Day in Botswana, 56 years since British rule. We are off by bush plane to Splash Camp for 3 nights.
